Cole's

Cole's is an L.A. survivor.   By local standards almost everything in the place is old, the mahogany bar, the Tiffany shades, the tables made from the sides of retired trolley cars, the photos on the walls.   Even the cash register is old, 50 years old, and won't take a price over $9.99.   They had a bartender in employ for 62 years, but he retired in 1985.   Not much has changed on the menu since 1908 when Harry Cole opened the PE Buffet and originated the French Dip Sandwich.

The site, the Pacific Electric Building at 6th & Main, was completed by California mogul Henry Huntigton in 1905, not only to be the center of his PE Red Car rail network, but a lavish 9-story skyscraper office building as well, with the exclusive Jonathan Club nestled in the upper floors.   A vital spot, at peak 100,000 passengers passed through the electric rail hub daily, many of them stopping for food and drink at Cole's.   But, the automobile and the end of the 1950s brought great change to Southern California.   After the last Red Car rolled out of the PE building in 1961, downtown L.A. continued its sharp decline, and at one point Cole's was the only business open in the building.   Still, through the years the Hollywood dream factory has made good use of Cole's; 500 productions of film, TV and commercials have used the site, including Forrest Gump, L.A. Confidential, NYPD Blue, The X-Files and recently Mr. and Mrs. Smith.   In 1974 the city added Cole's to its list of Historic-Cultural Monuments as the oldest bar and restaurant in Los Angeles.

Now, with downtown L.A. resurging, Cole's may be entering a new phase.   The Pacific Electric Building is under restoration and will join the increasing number of "loft" residences downtown.   Though Cole's has only had three owners in its history, it has been reported that L.A. nightlife wizard Marc Smith is purchasing the establishment and will restore it "to its former glory."   I hope Cole's own cultural policy is not changed.   Beyond the cafeteria food and the full bar, Cole's has offered prose and poetry readings and music performances.   No need to wait.   On Wednesday, July 27, you can get a double shot of L.A. lore when local alternative/country band "I See Hawks In L.A." plays once again at this venerable L.A. venue.